We went to a geothermal spa; it was both terrifying and liberating

Iceland is one of the most geologically active places in the world and that activity has shaped Icelandic culture. Its harnessed by power plants to heat homes and used to warm greenhouses to grow food. It's also the heart and soul of social life. The English converse in pubs, the French murmur in cafes, Italians get loud in piazzas, and Icelanders bare all in their geothermally heated pools. They are everywhere, pretty much every village has a swim spot.Checkout HotPot Iceland to see a comprehensive map of pools and hot pots all over the island.

Krýsuvík geothermal area. These are not waters you want to swim in, way too hot, but worth checking out for sure.

Krýsuvík geothermal area. These are not waters you want to swim in, way too hot, but worth checking out for sure.


Swim etiquette says you must shower, completely naked, before going in. Pools have little to no chlorine, so it's imperative to be clean when using them. There are signs posted in the changing rooms explicitly saying, wash your funky bits with diagrams highlighting areas to focus on in the shower: armpits, head, hands, feet, crotch, and butt. And you're supposed to get alllll up in there so that you're not bringing any stank in the water. It's not worth it to try to break the 'wash your junk' rule either. First, it's disrespectful. And second, there might be a shower warden that will call you out. They don't mess around.

I knew the naked bit going in; I do my research okay. But it didn't change the fact I had a damn near full on panic attack when the time came to do the deed. So there I was, with my best girlfriend, we were having the best vacation, in the best country, and we were gonna have THE BEST spa day. After a long day driving the Golden Circle, we finished it off with a visit to Laugarvatn Fontana geothermal spa. It was unbelievable. They have multiple natural pools at varying temperatures and sizes. A hot tub and a sauna. Three steam baths at different temperatures (fueled by steam coming through the floor from the hot springs directly below). Everything sits on the edge of lake Laugarvatn where you can sit on the deck, admiring the view and take a cold dip if you're brave enough. All of this for roughly thirty-five bucks. UnREAL.

I didn't take my phone with me to the spa but here is a cute pic of me at Krýsuvík.

I didn't take my phone with me to the spa but here is a cute pic of me at Krýsuvík.

But before I could enjoy all this fantastic spa had to offer, I needed to grapple with a few things. As we undressed at the lockers, I couldn't strip down all the way. With my underwear still on, a towel wrapped around as much of my body as I could manage, I held back tears and ran to the bathroom. I was freaking out. I had never been completely naked in front of another person. It's not like I've never been vulnerable in front of others. I have a sex life, and I even did a play in college where I had to strip down to my skivvies. But those brightly colored bra and panties were still a piece of armour, something to hide behind. It's embarrassing to admit, but even when I'm getting busy, I still have some article of clothing on. I still have something to hide behind. So this was uncharted territory. I was so close to giving up and going to the cafe to eat some rúgbrauð bread (it's a rye bread, baked by burying it underground near a hot spring). But I'm trying this whole, love and accept myself, fat and all thing, so I DIDN'T. Instead, I took off my underwear, dropped the towel and stared at my fat naked body in the mirror. And I cried. It was such a profound release. Before I could be naked in front of others, I had to be naked with just me.

Like I said, didn't have my phone on me but here is a kick ass pic I took from the plane.

Like I said, didn't have my phone on me but here is a kick ass pic I took from the plane.

I have my share of body image issues, like every woman, thank you unrealistic beauty standards. My body size is constantly weighing on my mind, worried if I draw too much attention I'll get the look. That look of disgust that says, 'you don't deserve to take up that space because you're not a human, you're a monster.' I know not everyone thinks that and some might just have a resting bitch face. But that mentality is out there. I've seen it countless times, and our media and entertainment reinforce it. Fat is bad. Fat is ugly. Fat isn't worthy of love or even basic human respect. And fuck off right now if your response is, 'fat is unhealthy, and we shouldn't enable being unhealthy.' Promoting respect and self-worth of all bodies is not enabling being unhealthy. You can't judge a person's health by their appearance alone. And if we genuinely want people to be their healthiest selves, encouraging self-love and acceptance of their basic human existence is the way to a healthy mind and body. No wonder I've always lost the battle of the bulge and end up just being self-destructive. Self-hatred fuels that destructive behavior. I wonder what would happen if rather than assuming my body is wrong and aiming for a physical result, I conditioned myself to believe it's right and love me as I am. Not love what I could or should be but love myself with all my imperfections and fatness right now. And set positively framed goals focused on a healthy mind and body. Skinny might not be where I end up, but that's not important. What matters is being vibrant and alive and continually trying to grow and be a little better each day.

After hyping myself up, I walked out of the bathroom and showered. OK so I did see a curtain at one end when I finally made it to the showers, and I went for it. I'm still giving myself credit because progress is progress and I could have closed the curtain all the way, but I chose to leave it partially open because I'm trying. All I can do is try and be kind to myself. I might still have a long way to go, but I took a few steps forward, and I'm proud of me. And I did end up having THE BEST spa day. It was magical. After the showers, walking around in a bathing suit was a piece of cake. I have never felt so confident in a bathing suit. I still want that rúgbrauð bread though.

We did Iceland as a weekend getaway and it's very doable

I can admit when I have an unhealthy obsession, and currently, that obsession is Iceland. I visited for the first time solo this past December, fell in love, then went back again last month with one of my besties because... well I have a problem.

Gullfoss Waterfall

Gullfoss waterfall in the winter.

Gullfoss waterfall in the winter.

Gullfoss waterfall in the summer.

Gullfoss waterfall in the summer.

It's just, ugh, where do I even begin? I'm not a religious person but the closest thing I have is nature, and the understanding energy is always recycled, never created or destroyed. To me, that's the higher power that connects us all. (Oh yes, I'm super hippy dippy so get used to hearing crazy shit like that).

Kleifarvatn Lake

I mean come on, Joan Osborne, if God had a face, it would look like Kleifarvatn Lake and yes I would want to see.

I mean come on, Joan Osborne, if God had a face, it would look like Kleifarvatn Lake and yes I would want to see.

Iceland is full of untouched nature so she's basically a holy land and it FEEDS MY SOUL. Fun fact: it's illegal to drive off-road in Iceland because of the damage it causes to the land. And it is strictly enforced so don't be a dummy and drive off the marked roads when you're cruising in your rental car seeing all the majesty. #1 it's rude AF and #2 you'll get fined. Also yes renting a car is the way to go. It's the cheapest way to get everywhere you want, the most flexible because you don't have to stick to a tour schedule and it's pretty simple to navigate the roads. Just make sure your google maps doesn't have 'avoid highways' checked because then it becomes incredibly difficult to navigate the roads. Your travel buddy might turn on you, and you will get the shadiest side eye you ever saw.

Gullfoss Selfie

Luckily we made it through without killing each other and got to take this super cute pic in front of a waterfall. Aren't we adorable?

Luckily we made it through without killing each other and got to take this super cute pic in front of a waterfall. Aren't we adorable?

Rental places have manual transmission options which I prefer, they are at a lower rate and get better gas mileage. So you can save some dollars if you're cool driving a stick. In December I used Geysir. They were great, the car ran well, and even their lowest cost option had hookups to play music from your phone which was amazing when you're driving an epic road trip. Their office was one of the stops on the airport shuttle which made it very convenient to pick up and drop off. They also take debit cards if you don't have a credit card to put down, as I did not.

This summer I tried to get an even better bargain, and we went with Cheap Car Rental Iceland. I know, the name should have been enough but I vetted the reviews and it seemed a safe bet. It was alright, gave us the bare basics we needed to move from point A to point B. It was just much less convenient than I would have liked. The trunk was hard to open, the engine rattled like a dementor sucking out a soul, there was no way to play music and the guy who ran it was pretty mansplainy and used the phrase, 'I'm not racist' right before saying the first of many racist comments. And they weren't one of the stops on the airport shuttle, so you had to wait for their person to pick you up. It's an option if you really need to pinch that penny. I don't think I'll use them again. The music is a deal breaker for me.

Rental Car

I was so happy to say boy bye to this jalopy. We thought She would leave us for dead in the middle of nowhere.

I was so happy to say boy bye to this jalopy. We thought She would leave us for dead in the middle of nowhere.

Some more helpful pointers:

  • If you are in the NYC area, you can snag a round-trip ticket to Keflavík for $300-$400. Icelandair and WOW both offer fares in that range regularly. Prices are higher the farther from the Atlantic you are. Sorry west coast, the east coast's got you there.
  • Waterproof and wind resistant items are best, including shoes - it's incredibly wet and windy, and you don't want to be miserable. On our excursions I wore stay dry leggings from Old Navy, a tee or sweater, some Ahnu hiking boots and the only waterproof jacket I could find in July from dun dun dun... Costco! (Did you know they deliver? It's life changing, check your zip code). The jacket was great, the only issue was the largest size barely fit, but I made it work. Just no sitting when zipped up.
  • Eating and drinking out is expensive - grab groceries for breakfast and snacks (we loved Bonus and got tons of candy to bring home).
  • Spend money on lunches - always order the catch of the day - it will be delicious and half the price it would be for dinner.

Catch of the Day

ostabúðin had the most incredible fish dish I've ever eaten. They offer a lunch menu from 11:30 to 14:30. It had a cozy vibe with an attached shop you could walk around while waiting for a table.

ostabúðin had the most incredible fish dish I've ever eaten. They offer a lunch menu from 11:30 to 14:30. It had a cozy vibe with an attached shop you could walk around while waiting for a table.

  • Might as well pick up a bottle of booze duty-free at the airport so you can make some 'getting ready' drinks - make sure you go through customs first and buy at the store they literally make you walk through to exit the airport. Don't waste your time being turned away from the two you'll pass on your way to customs like my dumb ass did.
  • If you have a Costco card, you can use it to save money on gas (I love Costco as much as Oprah loves bread).
  • Drive the golden circle - an easy day trip when staying in Reykjavik.
  • Get a late night hot dog - I love Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur.
  • Go to a geothermal spa or hot spring - Blue Lagoon is iconic but pricey, and there are many other cool places for less $$.
  • Visit on the weekend Kolaportid flea market for affordable and unique souvenirs.

Lava Rock Jewelry

I finally got myself a piece of lava rock jewelry at the flea market - handmade by Sigal - Israeli Icelandic design. We also got handmade licorice and volcanic ash soaps and some more candy of course.

I finally got myself a piece of lava rock jewelry at the flea market - handmade by Sigal - Israeli Icelandic design. We also got handmade licorice and volcanic ash soaps and some more candy of course.

For real I could go on for pages and pages. I'll share more Iceland stuff later. If you are going on a trip soon, and have any questions, message me! I'd be happy to talk about my favorite place in the world to anyone willing to listen. Stay tuned for more about the land of fire and ice because I'M OBSESSED.